The best way to discover Hiva Oa in one day

Yoan is the reference guide on Hiva Oa. A passionate local guide, he adapts the day to his clients' preferences and departs directly from their accommodation. What he offers is far more than an excursion — it's an immersion into the soul of the island.

On the programme: stop at the Smiling Tiki with detailed historical explanations, crossing the island with multiple viewpoints over valleys and ocean, visit to sculptor Mahea Hunina's workshop, traditional lunch at Marie-Antoinette's, discovery of local producers (crafts, dried bananas, tropical fruits), and day's end at the Lipona archaeological site — home to the largest tiki in French Polynesia.

Calvary Cemetery, museums and the Smiling Tiki

The capital of Hiva Oa, Atuona is far more than a stopover — it's an introduction to the island's soul. The bay, dominated by Mont Temetiu (1,213 m), is animated by outrigger canoes, fishing boats and supply ships. You'll find a small market, family guesthouses and local crafts.

The unmissable is the climb to the Calvary Cemetery, which overlooks the bay. Here rest the graves of Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel — simple and moving. The panoramic view over the bay at sunset is magnificent. The Paul Gauguin Museum (600 XPF) traces his life in Hiva Oa through reproductions and archives. The Jacques Brel Space (500 XPF) tells the story of the Belgian singer with photos, archives — and his famous red plane, "Jojo".

Not to miss: the Smiling Tiki, a rare example of a Marquesan statue showing a happy face — accessible from the Faakua river, and included in Yoan's Kaoha Excursion.

An immense ceremonial centre deep in a valley

About fifteen minutes from Atuona, the village of Taaoa shelters the Upeke archaeological site — considered the largest archaeological site in all of French Polynesia. An immense complex of paepae (stone platforms), tohua (grand ceremonial centre), marae and moss-covered ceremonial remains. Numerous tiki, the oldest stone chapel in Hiva Oa, and an ancient cemetery complete the site.

Walking among these black stones is to step into a living sanctuary — you can picture the ceremonies, the chanting, the dances that once filled the valley centuries ago. A local guide is essential to understand the symbolism and hear the oral traditions.

The most spectacular road in Hiva Oa

Heading north from Atuona means setting out on one of the island's most impressive routes. The track climbs quickly, hugging the volcanic ridges with vertiginous views over the ocean and cliffs. A 4x4 is essential, especially after rain.

You pass through the valleys of Motuua and Nahoe — two wild, rarely visited havens with fine sand beaches ideal for a pause facing the ocean. The contrast between the deep blue sea and the intense green of the hillsides is striking. Further on, the flower-filled village of Hanaiapa, nestled in a valley, invites you to linger and discover local life before tackling the Hanatekuua hike.

Takaii — 2.67 metres, red volcanic tuff, Marquesan warrior chief

Located in the Puamau valley at the north-eastern tip of Hiva Oa, the Lipona archaeological site is one of the most important in all of French Polynesia. Dated to the 18th century and restored in 1991 by French archaeologists, it brings together five monumental tiki in an exceptional natural setting — surrounded by banyan trees, breadfruit trees, coconut palms and mango trees.

Many small tiki heads are scattered across the site, their exact meaning still unknown. The road to Puamau (2h30-3h from Atuona) is already an adventure in itself. At Puamau village, the black sand beach invites a pause. The excursion typically includes a traditional Marquesan lunch.

Valleys accessible only by sea

Among the most exclusive experiences in Hiva Oa, the boat outing to Hanamenu and Tanaeka bays is a rare parenthesis. These two isolated valleys — accessible only by sea — are rarely visited. You set out early from Atuona harbour aboard a bonito boat or speed boat, hugging vertiginous cliffs and sea caves.

At Tanaeka, a clear sand beach invites swimming. At Hanamenu, a few ruined paepae recall that the valley was once inhabited. Guides climb trees to pick mangoes, papayas and bananas. A valley walk, a beach picnic, the view from the ridge between the two bays — a timeless day, far from mass tourism.

Another facet of the Marquesas

Just 40 minutes by boat from Tahauku harbour, the neighbouring island of Tahuata offers a gentle and memorable day. The crossing passes the Hanakee rock — with the chance of spotting manta rays and dolphins. You land first at Hapatoni, a hamlet renowned for its Marquesan artisans specialising in woodcarving and bone carving (horse, pig, goat or swordfish bill).

Then on to Vaitahu — the site of the first encounter between Marquesans and Europeans (1595). A history-laden village with its local market, museum and imposing 19th-century stone church. The day ends on a white sand beach — an absolute rarity in the Marquesas — with a barbecue lunch with your feet in the sand. On the way back, you may spot wild horses on the cliff slopes.

The wild, grandiose dimension of Hiva Oa

It's by 4x4 that you truly grasp the scale of Hiva Oa. Roads wind between deep valleys, volcanic summits and abrupt cliffs plunging into the ocean. Local guides readily stop to explain the history of a place, point out a forgotten archaeological site, or offer a fruit picked from a roadside tree.

The safari passes through the ridges above Atuona, remote valleys still inhabited by families living from copra or fishing, viewpoints over secret bays. You encounter horses roaming free, wild goats on the slopes. Lunch is taken at a local family table. Our recommendation: Kaoha Excursion with Yoan (see our dedicated section).

A golden sand beach at the end of a tropical trail

From Hanaiapa village, a hiking trail of about 1 hour one way leads to Hanatekuua beach — considered one of the finest on Hiva Oa. The path crosses dense tropical vegetation with spectacular views over the ocean. Little shade, so it deserves the effort in hot weather — set off early morning with at least 2 litres of water per person and good shoes.

The reward: a totally wild golden sand beach, fringed with coconut palms, often deserted. The sea can be strong — stay cautious of currents. The return can be made by boat with a stop at Vaïee waterfall depending on weather.

Ancient engravings deep in the valley

Accessible by following the Faakua river from Tahauku Bay, the Tehueto petroglyphs are a site often overlooked by visitors in a hurry — yet fascinating. A roughly one-hour walk into the valley leads to these Marquesan rock engravings, silent witnesses of an ancient civilisation. Free access, perfect for heritage lovers who like to stray off the beaten track.

A deep, rich and mysterious ocean

The island has only one dive centre: Marquises Diving, which guarantees small-group outings. Hiva Oa's ocean is deep, plankton-rich and full of surprises. Sites range from volcanic walls and ray-filled caves to natural arches and spectacular basalt formations.

Possible encounters include the elegant melon-headed whales that curiously circle divers, imposing scalloped hammerhead sharks in season, schools of jacks and tuna. In certain cavities, dozens of rays appear suspended in an underwater cathedral. And unique to Hiva Oa: submerged archaeological remains add a historical dimension to the dive.