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The Australs —
Nature, Whales & Authenticity
The Austral Islands are the least known in French Polynesia — and that's exactly their strength. No turquoise lagoon or overwater resort, but green landscapes, cliffs, preserved nature, and above all humpback whales. From July to October, hundreds of whales come to give birth in the waters off Rurutu — one of the only islands in the world where swimming with them from the coast is possible. For travellers seeking experiences out of the ordinary.
Rurutu, Tubuai, Rimatara & Raivavae — the four islands covered
Humpback whales from July to October, spectacular coral caves (Ana Taupe'e, Ana A'eo), terraced taro fields, limestone cliffs, plateau hikes. A raw-nature island where every turn holds a surprise.
A vast lagoon ideal for diving — sharks, rays, turtles in crystal-clear water. French Polynesia's most agricultural island (strawberries, carrots, potatoes). Little-known archaeological sites and a fort recalling the Bounty mutineers' passage.
The smallest of the Australs, refuge of the Rimatara lorikeet — an extremely rare endemic bird. Pandanus craftsmanship, traditional fishing, the 1857 Mutuaura Protestant temple. No tourism — Polynesia at its purest.
The Vaiamanu motu — known as the "swimming pool motu" — is a ribbon of white sand in a lagoon of 50 shades of blue. Mount Hiro offers a 360° view of the island. Marquesan-style archaeological sites, tikis forgotten in the vegetation. The most beautiful island in the Australs.
Taro fields, crafts, archaeology & birdwatching
The Australs are unlike any other archipelago in Polynesia. This isn't an archipelago of lagoons and bungalows — it's an archipelago of raw nature, living culture, and rare experiences found nowhere else.
Terraced taro fields
Rurutu and Tubuai are known for their terraced subsistence crops — taro, cassava, sweet potato, yam. These agricultural landscapes shaped into the hillsides reflect an ancient, still-living communal organisation. A radically different image from resort Polynesia.
Tubuai — green landscapes and subsistence farming, far from the clichés of tourist Polynesia
Pandanus craftsmanship — pae'ore
The Austral Islands are renowned across the Pacific for the quality of their dried-pandanus-leaf crafts. Māmā and artisans weave baskets, hats, mats and rugs — pae'ore — with remarkable skill. These pieces are among the finest handmade souvenirs in Polynesia, far superior to the mass-produced goods sold at Papeete's markets. Definitely bring some home.
Little-known archaeological sites
Each Austral island holds pre-European remains that are barely signposted and rarely visited. Marae, tikis buried in vegetation, ceremonial terraces — an archaeological heritage as rich as the Marquesas', but without the tourists. On Raivavae, several stone statues wait in the jungle for history enthusiasts to find them.
Raivavae — green mountains hide little-known, rarely visited archaeological sites
Birdwatching — the Rimatara lorikeet
Rimatara is the last refuge of the Rimatara lorikeet (Vini kuhlii) — one of the rarest and most colourful birds in the Pacific. This small green-and-red parrot, endemic to the island, is classified as a vulnerable species. Rimatara is one of the few places on Earth to see it in its natural habitat.
Rimatara — lush vegetation, habitat of the Pacific's rarest endemic lorikeet
Traditional fishing
Deep-sea fishing is a signature activity in the Australs — tuna, mahi-mahi, marlin in deep waters. But it's torch fishing, practised at night in the lagoon alongside residents, that leaves the strongest memories. Ask at your guesthouse — it's an experience you won't find on the tourist islands.
Hiking
The Australs offer the best mountain hiking in Polynesia — without the crowds. Mount Hiro in Raivavae, Rurutu's plateaus, Mount Taita in Tubuai. 360° views over the Pacific Ocean, lush vegetation, waterfalls. Plan for a local guide — trails are poorly marked.
Raivavae — hiking up Mount Hiro, with 360° views over the lagoon and motu
Tubuai — hiking trails to Mount Taita, between forests and terraced crops
Plan more time than you think you need. Each island reveals itself slowly — the first 24 hours can feel disorienting (little going on, no resort), but after 3 days you understand why some travellers never want to leave.
Swimming with whales in Rurutu
Rurutu is one of the rare places on Earth where humpback whales come to give birth close to the coast — and where swimming in their presence is possible under regulated conditions. This isn't boat-based watching: you're in the water, a few metres from these 15-tonne giants.
Whale season
Humpback whales arrive in Rurutu between mid-July and mid-October, peaking in August–September. Outside this window they're simply absent — there's no reason to come to Rurutu for the whales off-season.
Rurutu — the clear waters where humpback whales come to breed every austral summer
How to organise the outing
Excursions are offered by local guesthouses or specialised operators. Budget $85–130 per person for a half-day at sea. The number of swimmers allowed in the water with the whales at once is regulated — book early.
Season guide Best Time to Visit French Polynesia — Weather & Whale Season Month-by-month breakdown, including the humpback whale season across all islands.Reaching the Austral Islands from Papeete
Tubuai's lagoon — one of the Australs' best diving spots, still under the radar
| Island | Flight from Papeete | Frequency | Indicative round-trip price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rurutu | 1h30 | 4×/week | ~$165–240 |
| Tubuai | 1h45 | 4×/week | ~$175–250 |
| Raivavae | 2h (via Tubuai) | 3×/week | ~$195–280 |
| Rimatara | 2h (via Rurutu) | 2×/week | ~$195–280 |
It's possible to combine Rurutu and Tubuai in one trip — a direct flight between the two islands is available with Air Tahiti. Allow 7 to 10 days to see both properly.
Are the Australs right for you?
The Australs aren't for everyone. Here's an honest breakdown of who they're for — and who they're not.
Raivavae's Vaiamanu motu — nicknamed the "swimming pool motu", the Australs' most spectacular site
- You're a repeat visitor to Polynesia wanting something different
- Whales are your absolute priority
- You're avoiding resorts and tourists
- You love authentic encounters
- It's your first trip to Polynesia
- You want an overwater bungalow
- You're visiting outside whale season (Nov–Jun)
- You need hotel-level comfort
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👉 Here, we share our best travel experiences, insider tips, favorite spots, and authentic advice to explore French Polynesia with passion 💙 (Tahiti, Moorea, Bora Bora, Huahine, the Marquesas, Tuamotu…)
